A decade ago I discovered myself trekking through the Saharan combat on the rear of a grumpy camel called Dolores. Morocco was a dream of mine. I yearned to sleep underneath a limitless skies, with thousands upon a huge number of stars & 1 moon amongst the shadows on the dunes. I received the wish of mine, remaining with a semi nomadic Berber family members, the proprietors of Dolores the Camel. In the mornings if the sun began to climb, warming the sands, its rays dancing in the dunes, it was I felt, paradise on the earth.
The concept of mine of Morocco had constantly been only that; of wilderness, dunes, camels and tagines. It was most certainly not of snow capped peaks, challenging mountaineering routes, ice axes or even crampons. Imagine my delight and surprise, when Richard suggested spending New Year’s Day climbing Jebel Toubkal (4167m), Morocco’s and certainly, North Africa’s greatest summit in total winter season conditions.
Marrakesh. Most may think about this a love/hate city type. All of trips into the High Atlas Mountains, home of A host along with jebel Toubkal of various other 4000m+ high peaks start in Marrakesh.
Maps are useless. You’ll become lost. Far more than one time. Hawkers selling from henna to fortunes and succulent dates to fragrant, brilliant spices will vie for the interest of yours. Tagine and also Berber whisky (sweet Moroccan mint tea) reign supreme and within the city’s main square, Jemma el Fnaa you will discover more than fifty stalls selling more than fifty unique kinds. Jemma el-Fnaa is when all of the excitement is. Storytellers and acrobats and musicians and also snake charmers and fortune tellers and locals and also tourists collide into Africa’s biggest square. Night or perhaps day it’s a spectacle to see. The old souqs branch off of the square. Tea pots, spices, throw rugs, paintings… you will find all and anything you don’t knew you needed in here.
This particular community is electric and I err on the edge of love.
Moving for the Hills!
After one day becoming lost through the souqs of Marrakesh, we made the way of ours to Imlil, a tiny settlement situated 1800m above the gateway and sea level to the High Atlas Mountains a 90 minute drive away. The very first order of small business was arranging for a mule to help on the trek of ours from Imlil as much as our basecamp at Les Mouflons, only one of 2 refuges at the foundation of Toubkal. Easy!
Kind of. Richard and I walked down to the neighborhood guide’s office as well as met Abdul, outlining the needs of ours to him.
“No guide?” queried Abdul. “No guide, without luck, without mule. Not easy to have only just a mule.”
This carried on for quite a while, but with a little bit of forth and back we thought we might have arrived at an agreement. We left work and Abdul escorted us across the highway towards an additional building. A brand new, vibrant black SUV stopped alongside us. The driver on the automobile, sharply dressed along with a major face got away, gesturing for us to keep.
We walked up the quite short flight of stairs as equally gentlemen followed close behind. At the upper part of the staircase I browsed from the wide open door. The police station was tiny.
An officer came towards me requesting the passport of mine that I dutifully handed over, he disappeared again into the shadows. I can watch him faithfully taking down my details onto a big ledger.
“Salaam Alaikum, I’m Mohammed, what’s your name?” The male from the SUV looked intently at me. I replied, “Salaam, my name is Sarah.” Mohammed’s eyes softened along with a huge, jovial grin appeared, he held the hands of his to the heart of his and informed me it was “beautiful, yours is the namesake of the wife of Abraham, the mom of Isaac, a most honourable name in Islam. We’re so very happy to see you right here. Welcome to my home.”
It seems the stop within the police station was only a formality as we had been trekking solo. Over ninety % of those attempting Jebel Toubkal appear on guided expeditions. As an unbiased party, the authorities had been simply recording the arrival of ours to the area and jotting down the itinerary of ours. We’d also signed papers stating we were competent mountaineers.
Mohammed as I concerned discover, was the well-connected and friendly extremely friend-of-a-friend. He’d just delivered at the police station to see us as well as plan for any mule as many as on the refuge. Also, he gave us the telephone number of his and then said contacting him if any problems arose. He was a good male to learn! After a lots of handshaking we were on the way of ours.
A Horse (Mule) with No Name
We met our muleteer, (another) Mohammed early on the following morning after a chilly night’s rest. Our mule was nameless so we christened him Morris, loaded him up and also are leaving. The trek to the refuges is aproximatelly 5 6 hours and they have aproximatelly 1400m of elevation gain. It is an easy, thoroughly enjoyable trip, although elevation is sufficient to observe the thinning air. Staying overnight in Imlil and also then at the refuge supports acclimatisation.
The trail rises sharply out of Imlil, initially after Mizane Valley. About half way up we stopped in the holy pilgrimage web site of Sidi Chamarouch. A white painted auspicious rock is right here and it’s a great area to stop for the fresh squeezed orange juice before continuing on. A little while later we hit the conclusion and also the snowline of the’ road’ for Morris the Mule. We unpacked nearly all of the gear of ours and between myself, Richard and Mohammed made the last jaunt to the refuge; the property of ours for the next day or two.
Wow, what a lovely environment! The refuges are positioned at the upper part of the valley and in winter months, are surrounded by frozen waterfalls and snow capped peaks. Toubkal is not the sole 4000m+ peak in the region. Timzguida and also ras Ouanoukrim are simply at the top of the valley beyond the refuges.
We settled in because of the evening in the typical part of the refuge before an open flame. Dinner was a hearty 3 course meal of soup, fresh oranges and tagine. The original program of ours was spending the next day doing valley walks and acclimatisation hikes before taking on our summit attempt of Toubkal later on in the week, but excitement received the very best people so we opted to choose the summit, pre dawn the following morning.
North Col or perhaps south Col?
You will find several routes to the pinnacle of Toubkal. The least and popular most technically demanding way on the top is through the South Col, roughly ninety five % of summit efforts are done via this specific route. The additional alternative will be the North Col, a definite step up from the south col, this’s even more committing and you need to be quite skilled moving on high ground and also more confident using ice axe & crampons. Upon our arrival into the huts, Richard had darted off for a pre trip recce on the North Col, but considering the altitude and my longish break from winter weather climbing, I did not really feel the drive to head up through the north. Thus, South Col it was!
An Alpine Start
Our alarm went off at 3:45am. It must have been aproximatelly -15 degrees Celsius in the room of ours. I burrowed my head more into the covers, but Richard leapt out of bed such as a spring chicken. The singular light of his mind torch shone straight at me. It was some time to stand up.
After a breakfast of refreshing Moroccan bread, jam and juice, we head out. The beginning of the path is pretty simple, climbing up from the refuges, before crossing a river and proceeding up a steep incline. Care is required . The terrain is somewhat easy going but an autumn would be consequential.
It was practically from the beginning of the trip that the altitude struck me. I walked really quite gradually in the sub zero temps, rests were repeated but short as a result of the cold. Very best to keep steady, slow, and going. While the altitude isn’t exceptionally large, AMS is usually a reality from 2500m upwards. The ideal option would be staying hydrated as well as take note of the body of yours when you ascend higher. We provide guidance on altitude.
The Toubkal winter climb was certainly a task. We continued on as the sun’s rays started to climb, alpenglow shining across the mountain tops. Eventually we hit the Tizi N Toubkal Pass (3950m), supplying views that are spectacular across the whole scope. We sat right here for a low number of occasions, soaking everything in. Alpine starts are tough, but completely worthwhile for moments this way.
The last push on the summit traces a very good ridgeline with little scrambling, skirting a precipitous decline. Care with crampons and ice axe was definitely needed . Very slowly but surely the summit’s metal tripod came into view and Richard and I hit the upper part. I could not think it! We’d the whole mountain to ourselves without using a sole to be seen. Panoramic views stretched across the Atlas Mountains as well as more into the Saharan desert. Amazing!
We descended how we came, which makes it to the refuge for a well deserved tagine and also warm cups of sweet mint tea.
A Winter Wonderland
The subsequent day or two have been spent taking a valley walks and ice climbing on the region’s lots of waterfalls plus icy outcrops. Even though the temperature was cool, there was a never-ending source of skies that are blue & sunshine.
Climbing Toubkal showcased a completely unique aspect of Morocco that I’d never considered before. The Atlas Mountains are nothing, challenging, and beautiful short of awesome. Exactly how lucky were we to jumpstart our 2019 in addition to North Africa’s highest mountain? To put it simply, I cannot wait to go again!